The coffee at Sant'Eustachio is unbelievable but go to Tazza d'Oro for the granita di caffè

Tazza d'Oro Caffè
via degli Orfani 84
06 67 89 792; www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com

Near the Pantheon, just to the left of the McDonald's, is the Tazza d'Oro. It's a very popular coffee bar, but I wait
in line for the granita: sweetened, crystalized espresso layered with whipped cream and served in a plastic cup with a spoon. In the middle of a day of church hopping, this is a great way to get a second wind. The delicious combination of sugar and caffeine immediately puts me in a good mood and reminds me that I am exploring a marvelous city. When I asked my eighty-six-year-old mother what she most enjoyed at the end of a very full week of sightseeing, she said, "I loved it all-but especially the granita."

George Stoll
George Stoll is a sculptor who has been showing internationally since 1994. His work is in the permanent collections of the Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles and the Museum of Contemporary Art, San Diego, among others. He is a Fellow of the American Academy in Rome.