Kate Spade & Sarah Stonich recommend Bemelmans Bar

Categories: New York City | Travel
Okay it’s 2010, but still Bemelmans Bar breathes Old New York.

Bemelmans Bar
1947, murals by Ludwig Bemelmans

Legend has it Bemelmans Bar in the Carlyle hotel was one ofthe late Jackie O's favorite haunts, and that her protests, along with criesfrom others, helped save this landmark from being remodeled into just anotherMadison Avenue piano lounge ordinaire. Classy, but not fussy, Bemelmans is soelegantly dim that the most shimmering celebrity can be rendered inconspicuousin the shadows of the deep leather booths. Fine, since sighting the rich andfamous isn't the appeal here-people come to see the walls. Four walls ofmurals, once vibrant and now perfectly subdued by half a century of nicotinefumes, teem with characters you will immediately recognize unless you spentyour childhood in a culvert. Ludwig Bemelmans, author, artist, andrestaurateur, was best remembered as the creator of the Madeline books. In 1947 Bemelmans brought his characters in out ofthe rain and painted them to life among seasonal views of Central Park. Eversince, 12 little girls in two straight lines, and tweed-clad, shotgun-packingrabbits welcome regulars famous and not.

For a half-century a self-portrait of Bemelmans near the barhas overseen the preparation of countless thousands of perfect martinis by thewhite-tuxed, black-tied bartenders. The bartenders are no-nonsense veterans,and while only a few could possibly remember Bemelmans himself, they speak ofhim as if this good friend has just stepped from the room.

I try to visit whenever I'm in New York. One afternoon whenI was either dressed well enough or the lights were low enough that I might bemistaken for an Upper Eastsider, the barman headed to my booth with a phone inhis hand, just like the movies, bowing from the waist-I swear he clicked hisheels-and offered me the receiver, inquiring, "Miss Colgate?"

I was tempted by the mischievous Madeline perched just overmy shoulder: Take the call, take the call!

"Miss Colgate?"

But gumption failed and I could only reply, "I wish." Thebarkeep and I had a good laugh, and a few moments later I was delivered apotent something on the house, which is exactly the type of hospitalityBemelmans himself was loved for.

Sarah Stonich
Author

 

For me, an evening at Bemelmans Bar has always been bothfanciful and familiar. When I was a young editor just getting started in NewYork, a visit to Bemelmans meant slowly savored martinis and a meal of homemadechips, rosemary marinated olives, and divine mixed nuts. I would float throughthe front door, past the tastefully dressed giraffe with the yellow handbagthat graces the wall near the entry, and casually settle in for a cocktail andconversation. Tommy, the friendly Irishman who has been tending the bar formore than 40 years, made me feel right at home. I would slip into a tuftedleather banquette and slip back in time. By the end of the evening, I felt asthough I had stepped out of a Noël Coward play. Today, the experience ofturning back the elegant clock at Bemelmans is every bit as transporting. Therefined service and urbane pianist, along with the warm glow of the room andLudwig Bemelmans' amazing wall murals, have endured and I expect always will.

Kate Spade
Fashion Designer

POSTED BY Robert Kahn on February 11th 2010 | Add a comment

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